Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Cambodia Part 1

We arrived in Cambodia (seems like ages ago now) and the first thing you do is get a visa, i.e. stand in line and pay $$$ to enter the country. Funny, they charge you to enter and leave. Actually that's not funny. Anyway, when you give them your passport for Visa approval, there is a line of about 10 officials and they pass your passport down the line with each official examining it and approving by passing it to the next individual. Government burecracy and employment at its best. We met our driver and guide who took us to our hotel. We had the day free so Judy and I headed out to go explore a local market. We attemped to walk but got lost and hot really quick so we hailed a tuk tuk. We asked to go to the Central Market and were dropped off at what seemed like an auto parts market. One thing to note is that a lot of the markets we have visited are these huge indoor complexes (some are outdoor as well) where you wander aimlessly down isles and isles of store after store of goods, trinkets, food, etc... they are dark, dirty, cramped, crowded and all around loads of fun. They have pretty much anything you could ever want or not want to buy. And the stores are not like mall stores they are more like little booths I would say 10 x 10 meters without only two walls. Tons of fun, wish we had places like this at home. Anyway we headed into the auto parts bazarr not knowing if we were going to enjoy this one and after many right turns and a couple of left turns the good stuff started to appear. BTW we later found out we were at the Russian Market (nothing to do with Russia) not the Central one. One of many 'communication errors' we have experienced. The Russian Market was good for us because they don't see many tourists and the bargaining was fun and excellent, again for us. Bargaining typically goes like this. Nick - "How Much?", Vendor - "For you , very special price, $50", Nick - "What, are you crazy? I'll give you $2" (In the U.S. I would probably get punched for making such an offer), Vendor - (not smiling any longer and acting sad) "Oh noooo, I cannot do, How about $48? Very special price just for you.". Nick - "Awww, you say that to all the tourists, what is MY very special price?" Vendor - "OK, OK for you, cause you are so nice, $40", Nick - " I dunno, how about $5"? Vendor (a little in shock) - "Nooo, I cannot do. $38". Nick - "That is just too much. See that woman over there (pointing at Judy looking at trinkets in another booth), she's my wife, she won't let me do it" (I make a motion and sound like I am cracking a whip.) "I really like but she is el Hefe and beats me when I spend too much (actually she beats me just for fun but I do not tell her this) I think the best I can do is $8". Vendor (laughing) - "OK, OK, I like, you funny, very special today price just for you, I have not seen many tourists today (whoops, should not have told me that) you can help me, $35, very good deal, you buy" (As she starts putting the item into a bag). Nick - "I dunno, There are a lot of other people selling the same thing I need to look around more and think about it some more." As I start to turn to walk away The price drops to $20 and then $15, the farther I get the more it drops. More than once the price has gone to $1 above what I am asking and they say "only one dollar, you can do". I hate that, it usually makes me feel cheap and then I don't want to buy from them anymore. By the time I walk far enough to reach Judy they yell back, "OK, OK, for you very special good price, $10!" Sold. The vendor is still smiling and so am I. Sometimes after walking away with our newely purchased goods we have gone back and given them the $1. It means a lot to them a little to us and makes them extremely happy when we do this. Judy's version of haggling is much simpler, it goes like this Vendor - "$20", Judy - "$18", Vendor - "Sold!". "DOH!" - That's me standing behind Judy cringing. The vendor is so excited they throw in some free stuff. With some practice she has gotten much better we've even done a little good cop, bad cop with our bargaining. Loads of fun. I thuroughly enjoy the bargaining even though sometimes they don't. Hate the game not the player. I think the markets are one of the things I have enjoyed about just about every country we have visited. Even when you don't purchase anything they are a ton of fun to just look and window show and people watch and see how the locals do things. The food areas are fun too as you can buy local foods or just see what they eat, butcher, keep alive and sell. After much haggling we walked away with a bunch of items that will hopefully survive the rest of our travels thru the region. After a few hours of this we hailed another tuk tuk, there is no shortage of these and it only takes a second to find one, and headed down to the waterfront. Hugging the river, can't remember the name at the moment, there are a ton of shops and restaurants and stores. We stopped to eat at Happy Pizza (it was indeed happy). There were little kids running around selling stuff like books (photocopied of course) and bracelets. Some of the way tooo young (like 6 or 7). One little brat told me to F* off when I would not buy from him (I wonder if he kisses Budda with that mouth). We did buy a couple of books about Pol Pot and the Khamer Rogue from a little girl who we found out was in school only after we quizzed her endlessly about what she learns and likes most about school. From there we wandered up and down the strip just looking at stuff, turning down tuk tuk drivers and basking in the local life. Massage parlors abound with rates of $6 for 60 minutes for all types of massages (Ted, we need to talk about your rates :). Judy and I have partaken in a few massages since we arrived in SE Asia and plan to have many more before we leave. We had lots of conversations with local people about everything from the upcoming Independence Day which includes dragon boat racess and policitics, especially Obama. It's had not to ovoid the Obama conversation as they bring it up often although that has died down now. The people here are super friendly and always smiling! Obviously not everyone but the majority are an absolute pleasure to deal with and when you say no thank you they rarely haggle you or bother you and they usually say thank you and let you go on your way. Judy and I both have veen very impressed and have thuroughly enjoyed the poisitiveness and happiness of the cambodian people. After a few hours and a couple of meals we get another tuk tuk and head back to the hotel. Price for carting us around never exceeds $3. Super cheap, we are almost in awe after wandering thru Europe using the Euro where things were not cheap. For example, beer in Europe 6 Euro (about $10), beer in SE Asia on average is $1. Cambodia uses the Dollar and the Real, Thailand uses the Bhat and Vietnam the Dong. Exchange for all three countries is about 33000 per dollar. We walk around with millions in our pockets. It feels good being a millionaire. BTW the food here is SOOO FREAKING GOOD! I want to eat and eat and eat and eat. We got back to our hotel which is nice, eat once more and head to bed. The next day we have a tour of the Royal palace, some wats (temples) and the Killing fields and museum.

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